Slamson was in charge of the travel arrangements, and because of his instructions, the group took the wrong road through the city. This mishap resulted in a heated argument between him and Ramjoo.
After settling in at the Empress Hotel, Baba asked the men, "Are you ready to do any type of work? Under Behramji's supervision, you will have to do the work of coolies and sweepers. If you are unwilling to do it, now is the time to say so. You will then not be bothered with any work during the entire journey."
Although they disliked the idea, they agreed. Shortly thereafter, Baba led everyone to see the city's main attractions, the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort. However, because of the heat, it was not an enjoyable experience.
The next morning they went to Mathura where they stayed in a Hindu dharamshala. There, too, they played the role of coolies. Besides all their heavy luggage, the men had to carry many watermelons for Baba, Behramji and Gustadji, who were fasting on only watermelon juice once a day. The other men would also enjoy the fruit but did not enjoy lugging the heavy melons around from town to town.
The men had a bath in the great Yamuna River and washed their soiled clothing. Mathura abounds with hundreds of monkeys and, though precautions were taken, one mischievous monkey managed to run away with Masaji's pajamas, which he recovered after a lengthy chase. Baba found the incident quite funny.
That afternoon all accompanied Baba to various temples, where Babu Cyclewalla performed the worship ceremonies according to Hindu rites. At some temples Baba would prostrate himself or distribute money to the poor. Mathura is famed as the birthplace of Lord Krishna, and the Master took the mandali to the enshrined temple-house where Krishna was born over 4,000 years ago. There, he ordered all to offer their obeisance. In the evening they rode in the boats along the waters of the Yamuna River.
On one occasion, Baba casually inquired of Adi if he found this tour enjoyable. "Enjoyable?" Adi snapped. "How can one enjoy it when one is about to pass out from exhaustion!"
Baba became irate and scolded him, "Only this is real anand [bliss, joy]! What do you know? Do you hear me?"
Adi lost his temper and retorted, "No, I do not hear you!" At this, Baba slapped him so soundly that his eardrum was injured and his ear started oozing blood.
